thanks, nice and slow explanation, for landscape I tink this is good advice, but is you are at low light conditions like parties, portrait, or sports, I use a different sequences depending on my goal. But I soo much agree manual mode is the easiest to reach you goal.
"scroll the shutter speed a few clicks…" that's precisely why I usually do auto. If the camera had tangible clicking exposure wheels… but it's doesn't. Instead of operating controls by touch I must actually see the back screen, and to see it I must put on near glasses and even then screen is still barely legible in bright sunlight. The manual says that the exposure numbers are duplicated in the viewfinder, but with the correct diopter setting I can't see them either. So in the end I resort to plain aperture-priority at F/4 or F/5.6 and ISO 200, and if auto exposure hits the shortest end (1/4000) so be it. Sometimes, just sometimes the background is mildly overexposed, but the main subjects (I usually shoot cycling and auto races) are reasonably good.
Agree with all that as that is my preferred method for getting the right exposure in manual mode on my trusty Nikon D7500. HDR does help but tend to be hit 'n' miss and easy to overcook everything. I went through that HDR phase, but these days I save images as RAW and try to get the best levels via processing in Lightroom and 8 out of 10 times I get what I wanted. Also I tend to deliberately slightly overexpose in dark situation (eg, night time using long shutter times) to try and get the best details in dark areas and vice versa with bright sunny daylight set up by very slightly underexposing to get the best details/prevent blown highlights in bright areas.
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thanks, nice and slow explanation, for landscape I tink this is good advice, but is you are at low light conditions like parties, portrait, or sports, I use a different sequences depending on my goal. But I soo much agree manual mode is the easiest to reach you goal.
"scroll the shutter speed a few clicks…" that's precisely why I usually do auto. If the camera had tangible clicking exposure wheels… but it's doesn't. Instead of operating controls by touch I must actually see the back screen, and to see it I must put on near glasses and even then screen is still barely legible in bright sunlight. The manual says that the exposure numbers are duplicated in the viewfinder, but with the correct diopter setting I can't see them either. So in the end I resort to plain aperture-priority at F/4 or F/5.6 and ISO 200, and if auto exposure hits the shortest end (1/4000) so be it. Sometimes, just sometimes the background is mildly overexposed, but the main subjects (I usually shoot cycling and auto races) are reasonably good.
Finally got it .Thanks alot
Finally, someone that explained simply, thank you so much
Agree with all that as that is my preferred method for getting the right exposure in manual mode on my trusty Nikon D7500. HDR does help but tend to be hit 'n' miss and easy to overcook everything. I went through that HDR phase, but these days I save images as RAW and try to get the best levels via processing in Lightroom and 8 out of 10 times I get what I wanted. Also I tend to deliberately slightly overexpose in dark situation (eg, night time using long shutter times) to try and get the best details in dark areas and vice versa with bright sunny daylight set up by very slightly underexposing to get the best details/prevent blown highlights in bright areas.
Finally, someone that explained simply, thank you so much
Thank you! Great video. I understood you perfectly. Definitely the best video I have seen on this subject.
This made my day.
Fantastic presentation.
Impressive skills.
This was a great watch.
I'm so glad I found this channel.
Quality content as always.
So well presented.
I learned something new today.
A joy to watch.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Super entertaining.
Very charming.
Thanks
This deserves endless applause.
Super engaging.